The city of Santa Fe sits at a cultural crossroads—a junction between Native Americans, Old World Hispanics and Anglo-Americans. As these cultures interacted through the centuries, a singular brand of cuisine evolved that combined the utilitarian simplicity of Native American food with zesty Hispanic seasonings. The essence of this fare can be captured at dozens of Santa Fe restaurants, in varying degrees of authenticity, style and price.
The Santa Fe Five and Dime, right on the Plaza, takes simplicity to the next level with its world-famous Frito Pies—a bag of chips, sliced sideways then filled with chili, cheese and onions. It is a not hard to find someone on the Plaza enjoying this delightful concoction. Another simple favorite found only on the Plaza are Roque Garcia’s “Carnitas.” Since the early seventies, Roque has sold his tortilla-wrapped beef, onion, green pepper and salsa meals out of his homemade pushcart to thousands of locals and tourists alike. At the other end of the scale, the Ore House has served the taste of the Southwest to Santa Fe visitors in rustic, yet classy style for decades. To get an enhanced taste of what the Native population ate, visitors can try one of the Ore House’s wild game dishes of quail, elk or venison.
The state capitol sprawls a few blocks off the Plaza and lawmakers make a habit of congregating and discussing state politics at the aptly named Bull Ring, where you can still find a delicious Southwestern combination plate. The restaurant’s increasing popularity prompted a move a few years ago to the other side of the Plaza to more spacious quarters. Just east of the Plaza, in a small courtyard hides The Shed, where massive burritos bathe in an awesome green chile sauce. This stuff is not for wimps. The chile here is geared for chile lovers with cast iron taste buds.
Over the years, a number of these traditional restaurants have been transformed into trendy, New American restaurants, where skilled chefs lovingly build culinary masterpieces on a foundation of traditional Southwestern dishes.
Since the late 1920s, New Mexico’s rugged beauty and charm have drawn artists to Santa Fe. Eventually the city became internationally famous as the hub of art in the Southwestern United States. On the heels of these first artists came tourists, eager to experience the ambiance that so many artists were trying to capture. With these tourists came the wealthy elite. The industrial barons from the east, and the movie stars from the west converged on the city—and they brought along their money. Many fell in love with the beauty and charm and made Santa Fe their home. Drawn by this opportunity, a different brand of artist began appearing in Santa Fe. Classically trained chefs from the east and west moved to the City Different and restaurants like the Coyote Café and the Anasazi Restaurant were born.
One of the oldest fine-dining establishments in Santa Fe is the Pink Adobe, where locals and tourists have enjoyed gourmet meals like Poulet Marengo since 1944. La Casa Sena hides in a mesquite-shaded courtyard, just off Palace Avenue. Local crowds usually commandeer the bar to while away free time, while diners are made welcome at the hand-hewn tables. The food here is mostly contemporary with fresh, New Mexico-spiced seafood dishes claiming an entire page on the menu.
One of the best-kept secrets in Santa Fe is an ancient adobe hacienda that touts itself as the oldest bar and restaurant in the city. Considering the fact that Santa Fe is over 400 years old, this is a pretty bold claim, but there is no question that El Farol is one of the favorite places among locals to go for food, drink and music.
The only thing on the menu is Spanish tapas. Tapas were originally small appetizers that were placed on top of a small bottle of wine in Spain as a snack before the main course. The best way to experience this restaurant is with a crowd. Tradition here is to order two or three tapas, then swap forkfuls around the table, making for a fun dining experience. If you find yourself still here after nine, you may never leave. Each night the music gets fired up and the mood of fun-loving crowd is contagious.
While the sidewalks of Santa Fe may empty after dark when the shopkeepers go home, there is always someplace to go.
A good place to get started is in the Bell Tower Bar at La Fonda. This intimate, open-air rooftop bar is the best place in town to catch the sunset and watch the stars wake up one-by-one. The roof is not the only place to stargaze. The Cantina in the ground floor is a likely place to spot one the city’s resident movie stars. A number of Hollywood greats have made Santa Fe their home and it’s not unusual to be joined at the bar by the likes of Gene Hackman, Carol Burnett or James Woods.
Within walking distance of La Fonda are over a dozen great nightspots where locals and visitors join each other in merrymaking. Most hotel bars remain quiet during the week, but liven up on weekends. A block south of the Plaza is Catamount, where solid, whiskey-sippin’ blues flow as fast as the micro-brew. The pool tables are usually taken by less than serious shooters, but if a good game of pool is what you’re after head over to Galisteo and San Francisco streets where an ocean of felt awaits at Evangelo’s. The bar itself is an unassuming, Caribbean-themed club, but the basement is where the action is—billiards buffs crowd this well-lit, smoky poolroom to play for beer, money or fun.
Diversity reigns among Santa Fe’s restaurants and clubs, so if you cannot find something you like, keep looking—it is there.
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